If you've been looking for a way to save on gasoline and you've finally found a way, it's now time to influence yourself even more before you apply for your first gasoline rewards credit card. Like many things in life, things take time and research before you fully commit. I hope that these points influence you to apply for a gas credit card.
You need gas so why not save?
Let's face it. If you live on this planet, the chances you're driving an automobile around are pretty high. Every automobile needs gas. Wouldn't it be great to save money every time you fill up your gas pump? In life, you shouldn't have to pay normal prices on anything, there's always an exception. With a gas credit card, you're able to save a percentage of your money every time you put gas in your car.
The convenience factor
Whenever you go to the gas station, sometimes you just want to pay and leave. Well with any credit card, you can just pay at the pump, pump your gas and hit the road. Every time you use your card, you should feel good inside seeing that you're saving money on your purchase. The guy pumping up next to you is likely paying full price.
Track your expenses
Like any credit card you have in your collection, you will most likely receive a statement either in the mail or electronically online. Every time you receive your statement, you'll be able to see exactly how much you're spending monthly. The nice thing about getting these statements will allow you change the way you spend or drive each month. Remember, you can change your driving habits and earn more for your dollar. In order to find out how to change your driving habits, you can easily do research online.
The reward factor
Just because you apply for a gas reward credit card doesn't mean you can solely use it on gas. In fact, you'll be able to use it on a lot more purchases. It's just that your gas purchases will give you the most savings but in some cases, some cards will allow you save even more money on other types of purchases such as grocery, drug stores, etc. The nice thing about this is not only are you saving on your gas fill ups, you'll be able to save on your groceries as well.
History has shown the gas prices as continued to rise with the supply and demand getting higher and higher each year. As I mentioned earlier in this article, you shouldn't spend top dollar for anything. There's always a way around it. If you've been looking for a way to save on gas or you've found the way and you just need more influence, a gas credit card can't do you any wrong. The worst you can do is apply for a card and if you don't like it in the long run, you can simply call up the credit card company and cancel. If you like it, continue to use it and save every time you fill up!
Tom Tessin runs FINDgascards that focuses on gas cards
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Antifreeze Recycling Equipment
Modern antifreeze recycling equipment can turn old worn out coolant into “like new” condition using a process of chemicals and filtration. In today’s environmentally conscious society, recycling and the conservation of resources is foremost on most people’s minds. Antifreeze is one of those chemicals that all modern automobiles need to run efficiently and well. With all the focus on gasoline and motor oil, the ethylene glycol in automotive antifreezes is easy to overlook. However, your car’s radiator should be flushed and new antifreeze put in at least every 30,000 miles. This makes for a lot of antifreeze that needs to be disposed of properly. There is another solution, instead of replacing your current antifreeze with a new coolant, your old antifreeze can be recycled and used again and again. Nearly all antifreeze is a combination of ethylene glycol and an additive package. Ethylene glycol will not wear out but the additives will become old and useless. This is why antifreeze needs to be replaced. The ethylene glycol, which is the petroleum based component of antifreeze, is still good and useable. It’s the additives and the gunk that collects in the your car’s coolant that render it unusable.
Antifreeze is one of those chemicals that all modern automobiles need to run efficiently and well. With all the focus on gasoline and motor oil, the ethylene glycol in automotive antifreezes is easy to overlook. However, your car’s radiator should be flushed and new antifreeze put in at least every 30,000 miles. This makes for a lot of antifreeze that needs to be disposed of properly. There is another solution, instead of replacing your current antifreeze with a new coolant, your old antifreeze can be recycled and used again and again. Nearly all antifreeze is a combination of ethylene glycol and an additive package. Ethylene glycol will not wear out but the additives will become old and useless. This is why antifreeze needs to be replaced. The ethylene glycol, which is the petroleum based component of antifreeze, is still good and useable. It’s the additives and the gunk that collects in the your car’s coolant that render it unusable.
How the process works.
Antifreeze recycling equipment will remove the old additives and place new additives into ethylene glycol. The process begins by using a chemical process to separate the old additives from the coolant. (For example, the Viper series produced by Clore Automotive uses the patented Techguard chemicals in this process. )After the chemicals are added to separate the additives from the coolant, the coolant is cycled through the filters to remove any additives, oils and suspended debris that has collected in the antifreeze. There are basically two chemicals that need to be added to the old coolant. The first chemical additive separates the additives from the ethylene glycol and the second chemical additive The second chemical is a coagulant. This will bond the separated additives into particles that can then be captured by the filtration system.
Filtration and removal of the old additives.
Once the antifreeze recycling equipment chemical process has been completed, the coolant will need to run through a filtration system to remove the particles of additives that the coagulant has just created. The Viper 3400 Antifreeze Recycling Equipment by Clore Automotive used three filters to process the treated coolant. The first two filters are a 50 micron and 1 micron rated filter. For example, 1 micron is 1/90th the diameter of a human hair. So not much is getting past a 50 micron rated filter. The third filter in the chain is a carbon filter. The carbon filter will remove any remaining garbage left in the coolant and will even remove the original green dye from it as well.
Creating new antifreeze from the old
Once the ethylene glycol has successfully been separated from the old additives and all the junk has been filtered out, it is time to add in the new additives. This process is not rocket science and it shouldn’t scare you off. Just carefully follow the mixing instructions and use the correct chemicals for the antifreeze recycling equipment you are using. Once the new additives are properly mixed in, you will new looking antifreeze complete with green dye. Once the process is completed, the recycled coolant is good for 2 years or 30,000 miles.
Tips for successful antifreeze recycling.
Using antifreeze recycling equipment can be a time consuming process. I would recommend completing the recycling process with the unit away from the vehicle. There is no need to tie up a revenue producing bay with an antifreeze recycling machine connected to a car. Also, remember to follow the manufacturers instruction to the letter to insure the recycled coolant is done correctly. Finally, to extend the life of your filters, carefully monitor the pressure gauge and adjust the machine accordingly.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Air Compressors
Antifreeze is one of those chemicals that all modern automobiles need to run efficiently and well. With all the focus on gasoline and motor oil, the ethylene glycol in automotive antifreezes is easy to overlook. However, your car’s radiator should be flushed and new antifreeze put in at least every 30,000 miles. This makes for a lot of antifreeze that needs to be disposed of properly. There is another solution, instead of replacing your current antifreeze with a new coolant, your old antifreeze can be recycled and used again and again. Nearly all antifreeze is a combination of ethylene glycol and an additive package. Ethylene glycol will not wear out but the additives will become old and useless. This is why antifreeze needs to be replaced. The ethylene glycol, which is the petroleum based component of antifreeze, is still good and useable. It’s the additives and the gunk that collects in the your car’s coolant that render it unusable.
How the process works.
Antifreeze recycling equipment will remove the old additives and place new additives into ethylene glycol. The process begins by using a chemical process to separate the old additives from the coolant. (For example, the Viper series produced by Clore Automotive uses the patented Techguard chemicals in this process. )After the chemicals are added to separate the additives from the coolant, the coolant is cycled through the filters to remove any additives, oils and suspended debris that has collected in the antifreeze. There are basically two chemicals that need to be added to the old coolant. The first chemical additive separates the additives from the ethylene glycol and the second chemical additive The second chemical is a coagulant. This will bond the separated additives into particles that can then be captured by the filtration system.
Filtration and removal of the old additives.
Once the antifreeze recycling equipment chemical process has been completed, the coolant will need to run through a filtration system to remove the particles of additives that the coagulant has just created. The Viper 3400 Antifreeze Recycling Equipment by Clore Automotive used three filters to process the treated coolant. The first two filters are a 50 micron and 1 micron rated filter. For example, 1 micron is 1/90th the diameter of a human hair. So not much is getting past a 50 micron rated filter. The third filter in the chain is a carbon filter. The carbon filter will remove any remaining garbage left in the coolant and will even remove the original green dye from it as well.
Creating new antifreeze from the old
Once the ethylene glycol has successfully been separated from the old additives and all the junk has been filtered out, it is time to add in the new additives. This process is not rocket science and it shouldn’t scare you off. Just carefully follow the mixing instructions and use the correct chemicals for the antifreeze recycling equipment you are using. Once the new additives are properly mixed in, you will new looking antifreeze complete with green dye. Once the process is completed, the recycled coolant is good for 2 years or 30,000 miles.
Tips for successful antifreeze recycling.
Using antifreeze recycling equipment can be a time consuming process. I would recommend completing the recycling process with the unit away from the vehicle. There is no need to tie up a revenue producing bay with an antifreeze recycling machine connected to a car. Also, remember to follow the manufacturers instruction to the letter to insure the recycled coolant is done correctly. Finally, to extend the life of your filters, carefully monitor the pressure gauge and adjust the machine accordingly.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Air Compressors
Top 10 Things You Need In Your Car In Case Of An Emergency
Driving at any time of the year can be dangerous, but it is especially important to be careful driving in the winter. Winter driving can bring the hazards of snow, ice, freezing rain, sleet, blackouts, whiteouts, and much more. If your car breaks down at any other time of year, you've still got a good chance of being able to take care of it yourself. However, in the winter, the days are shorter, the weather is colder and it is not at all comfortable to break down in a snowstorm! There are also more ways to break down in the winter; not only can your car run out of gas, but it can also get stuck in the snow.
If you are starting to panic, just relax; there are some things you can do to prepare for car emergencies. Here the top ten items to keep in your car in case of an emergency:
Snow shovel - You never know when you'll get stuck in the snow, and you also never know if a good Samaritan will be around when you get stuck. Even in the summertime, cars can get stuck in the mud, and a shovel would still help in that situation.
Candle - Even though a candle may be a lot smaller than a car, it can still keep you and your car warm in the winter if you happen to break down or get stuck in a snow bank.
Blanket - If you ever break down in the winter, a blanket or sleeping bag is a very good thing to have!
Spare tire - Always a handy item to have when something happens to one of your car's tires.
Tools - It is important to carry the right kind of tools in your car to help you in case of an emergency. Tools such as a jack, ratchet, lighter.
Air Compressor - Many stores now sell mini compressors that are just for this purpose. A lot of perfectly good tires start to lose air after a while and an air compressor is a quick fix when you are stuck on the side of the road!
Flashlight - This one is pretty self explanatory. You never know when something will happen, and if you happen to break down after dark, a flashlight quickly turns into a lifesaver. Without a flashlight, all the tools in the world will not help you in the dark!
Food - This one may sound strange, but the truth is, people get hungry, and if you are stuck in the middle of nowhere, some granola bars and bottles of water are a big help!
Cell phone - Nowadays, car emergencies are not as bad as they used to be, because of cell phones. As long as you have good service in the area you happen to be in, you will be just fine.
First Aid Kit - This is perhaps the most important thing to carry in your car - especially if you have children. You never know what is going to happen, and even the slightest accident can cause some injuries to you and your loved ones that can be easily remedied by a well-stocked first aid kit.
A proven performer in Sydney car rental offering its' customers with free express pickup service from our many Australia locations for personal, business or holiday Sydney car hire needs.
If you are starting to panic, just relax; there are some things you can do to prepare for car emergencies. Here the top ten items to keep in your car in case of an emergency:
Snow shovel - You never know when you'll get stuck in the snow, and you also never know if a good Samaritan will be around when you get stuck. Even in the summertime, cars can get stuck in the mud, and a shovel would still help in that situation.
Candle - Even though a candle may be a lot smaller than a car, it can still keep you and your car warm in the winter if you happen to break down or get stuck in a snow bank.
Blanket - If you ever break down in the winter, a blanket or sleeping bag is a very good thing to have!
Spare tire - Always a handy item to have when something happens to one of your car's tires.
Tools - It is important to carry the right kind of tools in your car to help you in case of an emergency. Tools such as a jack, ratchet, lighter.
Air Compressor - Many stores now sell mini compressors that are just for this purpose. A lot of perfectly good tires start to lose air after a while and an air compressor is a quick fix when you are stuck on the side of the road!
Flashlight - This one is pretty self explanatory. You never know when something will happen, and if you happen to break down after dark, a flashlight quickly turns into a lifesaver. Without a flashlight, all the tools in the world will not help you in the dark!
Food - This one may sound strange, but the truth is, people get hungry, and if you are stuck in the middle of nowhere, some granola bars and bottles of water are a big help!
Cell phone - Nowadays, car emergencies are not as bad as they used to be, because of cell phones. As long as you have good service in the area you happen to be in, you will be just fine.
First Aid Kit - This is perhaps the most important thing to carry in your car - especially if you have children. You never know what is going to happen, and even the slightest accident can cause some injuries to you and your loved ones that can be easily remedied by a well-stocked first aid kit.
A proven performer in Sydney car rental offering its' customers with free express pickup service from our many Australia locations for personal, business or holiday Sydney car hire needs.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Auto Auctions-How To Succeed
Have you ever heard of seized auto auctions? Have you ever wondered if there is an alternative to purchasing your next car through a dealer,or of someone getting a car at an incredible price, or wondered what happens to vehicles seized by the banks, police agencies or the government? Are you curious about what happens to pre-owned government vehicles? These vehicles are sold at auction; some at on site auctions and some at seized auto auctions. Buyers can get these cars for thousands less than retail and some starting at bids of $100.00.
If saving that kind of money is not a good enough reason to visit a seized auto auction then here are five more
1. Seized auto auctions are fun
Seized auto auctions can be a lot of fun. First there is the excitement of bidding for that car that you always wanted. Then there is the thrill of getting your dream car at a dream price. You could even practice by guessing what the top bid will be and see how close you come. How much would you have saved
2. They provide peace of mind
It is very important for seized auto auction sites to maintain a good reputation. To this end many sites provide services such as vehicle history reports for a small fee,or programs to protect buyers from fraud or misrepresentation. You may even be able to check out the sellers rating if they have sold on that site before. There are also resources on how to purchase a car online and how to bid to your advantage
3. They save time and effort
Driving from dealership to dealership, or from private owner to private owner can waste a lot of your precious time and play havoc with your nerves. What if your schedule just does not give you the time to run around? With high gas prices who wants to do all that driving. With seized auto auctions you set your own schedule for research and can bid at home or during coffee break or lunch.
4. They help you stay on budget
A major problem faced by most buyers is letting your emotions influence your buying decision. Something the average car dealer knows how to exploit. Seized auto auction sites protect you from the heat of bidding by allowing you to place a maximum bid level before starting the auction. This way you can only bid as much as you common sense will allow. That is as long as you do not let your emotion decide the maximum bid to begin with.
5. That is where you get your car at a bargain price
Car auctions are one of the best places to get a great car at a bargain price. Thousands of cars, trucks and motorcycles end up in auctions. Many of these vehicles are in prime condition; being either repossessed by banks or law enforcement agencies, or pre-owned government vehicles. Many sites boast cars sold for savings as high as 90% of retail. While this is possible most vehicles go for around wholesale or blue book value. Still a sizable savings over anything you can get from a dealership.
Research is your best friend. Like any major purchase you should do your research on the car you plan to purchase. Familiarize yourself with the policies and guarantees offered by the seized auto auction site. Get all the information you can about the vehicle and the seller. Check out insurance and financing options.
Prepare well and you you will have a stress free and profitable experience. You may end up owning the car of your dreams for thousands less just buy trying out the seized auto auctions
For more information go to http://www.webspawner.com/users/tonyccc/index.html
Author has many years experience in Internet Marketing http://www.webspawner.com/users/tonyccc/index.html
If saving that kind of money is not a good enough reason to visit a seized auto auction then here are five more
1. Seized auto auctions are fun
Seized auto auctions can be a lot of fun. First there is the excitement of bidding for that car that you always wanted. Then there is the thrill of getting your dream car at a dream price. You could even practice by guessing what the top bid will be and see how close you come. How much would you have saved
2. They provide peace of mind
It is very important for seized auto auction sites to maintain a good reputation. To this end many sites provide services such as vehicle history reports for a small fee,or programs to protect buyers from fraud or misrepresentation. You may even be able to check out the sellers rating if they have sold on that site before. There are also resources on how to purchase a car online and how to bid to your advantage
3. They save time and effort
Driving from dealership to dealership, or from private owner to private owner can waste a lot of your precious time and play havoc with your nerves. What if your schedule just does not give you the time to run around? With high gas prices who wants to do all that driving. With seized auto auctions you set your own schedule for research and can bid at home or during coffee break or lunch.
4. They help you stay on budget
A major problem faced by most buyers is letting your emotions influence your buying decision. Something the average car dealer knows how to exploit. Seized auto auction sites protect you from the heat of bidding by allowing you to place a maximum bid level before starting the auction. This way you can only bid as much as you common sense will allow. That is as long as you do not let your emotion decide the maximum bid to begin with.
5. That is where you get your car at a bargain price
Car auctions are one of the best places to get a great car at a bargain price. Thousands of cars, trucks and motorcycles end up in auctions. Many of these vehicles are in prime condition; being either repossessed by banks or law enforcement agencies, or pre-owned government vehicles. Many sites boast cars sold for savings as high as 90% of retail. While this is possible most vehicles go for around wholesale or blue book value. Still a sizable savings over anything you can get from a dealership.
Research is your best friend. Like any major purchase you should do your research on the car you plan to purchase. Familiarize yourself with the policies and guarantees offered by the seized auto auction site. Get all the information you can about the vehicle and the seller. Check out insurance and financing options.
Prepare well and you you will have a stress free and profitable experience. You may end up owning the car of your dreams for thousands less just buy trying out the seized auto auctions
For more information go to http://www.webspawner.com/users/tonyccc/index.html
Author has many years experience in Internet Marketing http://www.webspawner.com/users/tonyccc/index.html
How to Select The Auto Shipping Company that's Right for You
Shipping a car can seem like a very overwhelming task, but if the following simple steps, suggestions and tips are followed, the process can be fast, and painless.
1. Get Quotes 2. Read and Understand Contracts 3. Check on Insurance 4: Inspections
Get Quotes: Some of the questions most often asked are "What will the total cost be to ship my car??" and "How do I find the auto shipping company that best suits my needs?" The best and easiest way to obtain these answers is to submit a request for several auto shipping quotes, and then compare prices and car shipping companies to find the one that best suits your needs. In order to best customize your quotes, you should be prepared to provide the following information:
*Origination/Destination *Approximate departure date *Year/Make/Model of vehicle(s) *Type of car transport service desired such as open or enclosed car transport.
After receiving your quotes, find out what payment method the carriers use, and what forms of payment are accepted (credit card, cashiers check etc). Some auto shipping companies don't require any type of payment in advance; others will require a deposit of 10-25% of the total fee. Occasionally a carrier will require full payment in advance. Carriers can vary widely in their billing practices, so be sure to ask what they are.
Contracts: Read your contract carefully, and get any questions that you may have answered in writing. Be sure that you are comfortable with the answers before signing anything. Do not rely on verbal promises. After signing your contract your auto shipping company will always refer you back to your contract for any questions or complaints that you may have.
Be sure to look for any clauses that may state that there are no guaranteed pickup or delivery dates. Although most vehicles are delivered within the predicted time frame, many transporters will not guarantee a delivery date.
For your protection, be sure to ask for a clause (in writing) that will waive any cancellation fees if the car isn't picked up by the auto shipping company within an agreed upon number of days of the scheduled pickup date.(3-14 is standard) If you are promised an exact date, get it in writing, as well as the remedy if the transporter is unable to perform as promised. (Discounted rate, no cancellation fee, rental reimbursement etc)
Insurance: Any licensed and bonded transporter will have insurance that would cover any damage or theft while in possession of the auto shipping company. Ask for a copy of transporters insurance coverage, and find out whether their insurance is primary or secondary to your own car insurance. It’s also a good idea to check with your own insurance company to verify coverage while in transit. Be aware that typically neither insurance company will cover possessions left inside the car during shipping. This is why most companies do not allow personal items to be shipped in your vehicle. Also keep in mind that extra weight in the car could damage the undercarriage during loading and unloading.
Inspections: You will be asked do to a vehicle inspection at both drop off and delivery to ensure that no damage has been done. This is for the protection of all parties involved. It is a good idea to wash the car before hand so that documentation of the cars condition is easier. Be sure to note mileage and the underside of front and rear bumpers. Don't pick your car if you can't verify its condition. Problems don't often occur, but if the vehicle is signed for and then damage is found you will have little or no recourse.
While most auto shipping experiences are problem and worry free, in the event that damage is found, document it with your driver, get his signature, and then contact the car shipping company. The transport company should work with you to reimburse you for any damage that was done.
If you take all of the above into consideration, and ask the suggested questions, you should have an easy, hassle free auto shipping experience. Happy Shipping!
Toni Anderson is a marketing specialist with The iRelocation Network.For more information and tips on shipping your car, and a free, online instant quote please visit our site at autoshipping
1. Get Quotes 2. Read and Understand Contracts 3. Check on Insurance 4: Inspections
Get Quotes: Some of the questions most often asked are "What will the total cost be to ship my car??" and "How do I find the auto shipping company that best suits my needs?" The best and easiest way to obtain these answers is to submit a request for several auto shipping quotes, and then compare prices and car shipping companies to find the one that best suits your needs. In order to best customize your quotes, you should be prepared to provide the following information:
*Origination/Destination *Approximate departure date *Year/Make/Model of vehicle(s) *Type of car transport service desired such as open or enclosed car transport.
After receiving your quotes, find out what payment method the carriers use, and what forms of payment are accepted (credit card, cashiers check etc). Some auto shipping companies don't require any type of payment in advance; others will require a deposit of 10-25% of the total fee. Occasionally a carrier will require full payment in advance. Carriers can vary widely in their billing practices, so be sure to ask what they are.
Contracts: Read your contract carefully, and get any questions that you may have answered in writing. Be sure that you are comfortable with the answers before signing anything. Do not rely on verbal promises. After signing your contract your auto shipping company will always refer you back to your contract for any questions or complaints that you may have.
Be sure to look for any clauses that may state that there are no guaranteed pickup or delivery dates. Although most vehicles are delivered within the predicted time frame, many transporters will not guarantee a delivery date.
For your protection, be sure to ask for a clause (in writing) that will waive any cancellation fees if the car isn't picked up by the auto shipping company within an agreed upon number of days of the scheduled pickup date.(3-14 is standard) If you are promised an exact date, get it in writing, as well as the remedy if the transporter is unable to perform as promised. (Discounted rate, no cancellation fee, rental reimbursement etc)
Insurance: Any licensed and bonded transporter will have insurance that would cover any damage or theft while in possession of the auto shipping company. Ask for a copy of transporters insurance coverage, and find out whether their insurance is primary or secondary to your own car insurance. It’s also a good idea to check with your own insurance company to verify coverage while in transit. Be aware that typically neither insurance company will cover possessions left inside the car during shipping. This is why most companies do not allow personal items to be shipped in your vehicle. Also keep in mind that extra weight in the car could damage the undercarriage during loading and unloading.
Inspections: You will be asked do to a vehicle inspection at both drop off and delivery to ensure that no damage has been done. This is for the protection of all parties involved. It is a good idea to wash the car before hand so that documentation of the cars condition is easier. Be sure to note mileage and the underside of front and rear bumpers. Don't pick your car if you can't verify its condition. Problems don't often occur, but if the vehicle is signed for and then damage is found you will have little or no recourse.
While most auto shipping experiences are problem and worry free, in the event that damage is found, document it with your driver, get his signature, and then contact the car shipping company. The transport company should work with you to reimburse you for any damage that was done.
If you take all of the above into consideration, and ask the suggested questions, you should have an easy, hassle free auto shipping experience. Happy Shipping!
Toni Anderson is a marketing specialist with The iRelocation Network.For more information and tips on shipping your car, and a free, online instant quote please visit our site at autoshipping
How to Avoid Counterfeit Auto Accessories
If you are unfamiliar with what makes aftermarket accessories the genuine article or a shady deal, then you may not be able to recognize a counterfeit performance car accessory when you see it. Counterfeits exist in every conceivable market, and discount car accessories are no exception.
This problem is nothing new. Over the last 20 years, criminals have sold phony high-performance car accessories for reduced prices. Loss of revenue for the automotive industry is not the on negative result. The less expensive price can save you some money while driving a car from accelerating gas prices. But consider this: most discount car accessories and parts sacrifice quality and safety with inexpensive and weaker materials.
Counterfeiters are clever people. They can create aftermarket auto accessories realistic enough to fool you long enough for it to be too late to do anything about. Several years ago, CBS Evening News ran a report on very crucial aftermarket automotive accessories: counterfeit brake pads. These pads were made of compressed grass clippings and wood chips, useless as brake pads. When you need to stop fast in an emergency situation, grass isn't going to cut it. When it comes to purchasing performance automotive accessories, stick with a brand name you know you can trust.
Is there a way for the average person to be protected against after market automotive accessory fraud?
Here is something to remember: A price that seem too good to be true, generally is! Seeing a popular brand of auto body kit that you've been eying available for half price may be a scam. Many counterfeiters have started to counter this approach by lowering their price just enough to avoid suspicion. Don't forget to do your research. Don't stop as soon as you find one instance of what you're looking for. Comparing prices to determine the average price for the accessory will allow you to make an intelligent decision on what you have observed.
Look closely at the package. At first a package may look creditable, but then some signs appear that it could be selling a scam.
Go to shops that you have had experience with or those that have received high reviews. Visit places you know about, or have been recommended to you by someone you trust. Sometimes the shops are being fooled just as much as you are, and every small shop is not deliberately being crooked by selling you discount car accessories. Distributors will usually purchase from those which have provided good service and good products. Consider purchasing from distributor that you've had previous good experiences with.
Be directly in touch with the manufacturer. The maker of the car can usually tell you if the item is real if you are unsure. Most major companies have protocols for proving the authenticity of accessories. Finding this information may be as simple as the code that is engraved on the part.
Your vehicle, your money, and your life are important. It would be foolish to settle on purchasing discount car accessories just to save a few bucks. Most manufacturers have phone lines or websites devoted to reporting fraudulent aftermarket automotive accessories and parts. Protect yourself, and report these crimes if you feel you've been a victim.
A car enthusiast himself, Alex Springton enjoys customizing his car with the latest aftermarket accessories. Alex gained much of his expertise in a professional repair shop using automotive repair shop software from Winworks and recommends their repair shop management software to other mechanics.
This problem is nothing new. Over the last 20 years, criminals have sold phony high-performance car accessories for reduced prices. Loss of revenue for the automotive industry is not the on negative result. The less expensive price can save you some money while driving a car from accelerating gas prices. But consider this: most discount car accessories and parts sacrifice quality and safety with inexpensive and weaker materials.
Counterfeiters are clever people. They can create aftermarket auto accessories realistic enough to fool you long enough for it to be too late to do anything about. Several years ago, CBS Evening News ran a report on very crucial aftermarket automotive accessories: counterfeit brake pads. These pads were made of compressed grass clippings and wood chips, useless as brake pads. When you need to stop fast in an emergency situation, grass isn't going to cut it. When it comes to purchasing performance automotive accessories, stick with a brand name you know you can trust.
Is there a way for the average person to be protected against after market automotive accessory fraud?
Here is something to remember: A price that seem too good to be true, generally is! Seeing a popular brand of auto body kit that you've been eying available for half price may be a scam. Many counterfeiters have started to counter this approach by lowering their price just enough to avoid suspicion. Don't forget to do your research. Don't stop as soon as you find one instance of what you're looking for. Comparing prices to determine the average price for the accessory will allow you to make an intelligent decision on what you have observed.
Look closely at the package. At first a package may look creditable, but then some signs appear that it could be selling a scam.
Go to shops that you have had experience with or those that have received high reviews. Visit places you know about, or have been recommended to you by someone you trust. Sometimes the shops are being fooled just as much as you are, and every small shop is not deliberately being crooked by selling you discount car accessories. Distributors will usually purchase from those which have provided good service and good products. Consider purchasing from distributor that you've had previous good experiences with.
Be directly in touch with the manufacturer. The maker of the car can usually tell you if the item is real if you are unsure. Most major companies have protocols for proving the authenticity of accessories. Finding this information may be as simple as the code that is engraved on the part.
Your vehicle, your money, and your life are important. It would be foolish to settle on purchasing discount car accessories just to save a few bucks. Most manufacturers have phone lines or websites devoted to reporting fraudulent aftermarket automotive accessories and parts. Protect yourself, and report these crimes if you feel you've been a victim.
A car enthusiast himself, Alex Springton enjoys customizing his car with the latest aftermarket accessories. Alex gained much of his expertise in a professional repair shop using automotive repair shop software from Winworks and recommends their repair shop management software to other mechanics.
Auto Darkening Welding Helmets
Auto darkening welding helmets offer an intuitive protection to modern welders. These helmets automatically darken when a welder strikes the arc. They free the hands that in the past had to lift and lower the faceplate, or remove the helmet altogether to see. Many injuries have been eliminated by auto darkening helmets because they cover a welder's eyes at all times without risking exposure to irritating fumes and flying debris. By instantly responding to light, these helmets auto darken when the welder strikes the arc and clear up after the welder shuts off the arc.
Auto darkening welding helmets prove especially useful to welders working indoors under poor light conditions. Traditional welding helmets can literally blind a welder if he has to suddenly cease welding and kill the arc, leaving himself in total darkness and subject to fall and/or injury. Because of this, many construction companies now require all of their welders to use auto darkening welding helmets so they can see to walk the buildings they are working in. Auto-darkening helmets also help farmers working outside because they react to sunlight much like the light an arc. In future years, it is very likely all welding helmets will be auto darkening not only because they are more convenient than standard helmets, but also because their ever-increasing precision allows for customized-eye protection--something Federal authorities and Insurance agencies may soon require.
There are two types of auto darkening helmets that welders use. One is battery-powered; the other is solar powered. Solar power is more convenient and efficient when working outside, but work deep inside of large structures, or even underground, will require battery-powered helmets. Both employ sensors to "know" when the light brightens, and when it is time to adjust the special glass in the face shield to block just the right amount of light. From time to time a welder calls in with the question, "Won't the arc from my fellow welder trigger the auto darkening glass?" The answer could be yes or no, depending on the model in question. Basic models will grow darker with any exposure to arc light, regardless of the source. Deluxe auto darkening helmets have a sensor built into their design that "understands" the difference between the operator's arc and a coworker's arc. For private individuals working by themselves, it makes little difference, if any, if the helmet has an auto-darkening sensor like this. For a company, however, it is best to invest in high-end auto darkening welding helmets to have a sensor for secondary arc light. It simply makes sense to do so. Auto darkening welding helmets offer an intuitive protection to modern welders. These helmets automatically darken when a welder strikes the arc. They free the hands that in the past had to lift and lower the faceplate, or remove the helmet altogether to see. Many injuries have been eliminated by auto darkening helmets because they cover a welder's eyes at all times without risking exposure to irritating fumes and flying debris. By instantly responding to light, these helmets auto darken when the welder strikes the arc and clear up after the welder shuts off the arc.
Auto darkening welding helmets prove especially useful to welders working indoors under poor light conditions. Traditional welding helmets can literally blind a welder if he has to suddenly cease welding and kill the arc, leaving himself in total darkness and subject to fall and/or injury. Because of this, many construction companies now require all of their welders to use auto darkening welding helmets so they can see to walk the buildings they are working in. Auto-darkening helmets also help farmers working outside because they react to sunlight much like the light an arc. In future years, it is very likely all welding helmets will be auto darkening not only because they are more convenient than standard helmets, but also because their ever-increasing precision allows for customized-eye protection--something Federal authorities and Insurance agencies may soon require.
There are two types of auto darkening helmets that welders use. One is battery-powered; the other is solar powered. Solar power is more convenient and efficient when working outside, but work deep inside of large structures, or even underground, will require battery-powered helmets. Both employ sensors to "know" when the light brightens, and when it is time to adjust the special glass in the face shield to block just the right amount of light. From time to time a welder calls in with the question, "Won't the arc from my fellow welder trigger the auto darkening glass?" The answer could be yes or no, depending on the model in question. Basic models will grow darker with any exposure to arc light, regardless of the source. Deluxe auto darkening helmets have a sensor built into their design that "understands" the difference between the operator's arc and a coworker's arc. For private individuals working by themselves, it makes little difference, if any, if the helmet has an auto-darkening sensor like this. For a company, however, it is best to invest in high-end auto darkening welding helmets to have a sensor for secondary arc light. It simply makes sense to do so.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Automotive Tools.
Auto darkening welding helmets prove especially useful to welders working indoors under poor light conditions. Traditional welding helmets can literally blind a welder if he has to suddenly cease welding and kill the arc, leaving himself in total darkness and subject to fall and/or injury. Because of this, many construction companies now require all of their welders to use auto darkening welding helmets so they can see to walk the buildings they are working in. Auto-darkening helmets also help farmers working outside because they react to sunlight much like the light an arc. In future years, it is very likely all welding helmets will be auto darkening not only because they are more convenient than standard helmets, but also because their ever-increasing precision allows for customized-eye protection--something Federal authorities and Insurance agencies may soon require.
There are two types of auto darkening helmets that welders use. One is battery-powered; the other is solar powered. Solar power is more convenient and efficient when working outside, but work deep inside of large structures, or even underground, will require battery-powered helmets. Both employ sensors to "know" when the light brightens, and when it is time to adjust the special glass in the face shield to block just the right amount of light. From time to time a welder calls in with the question, "Won't the arc from my fellow welder trigger the auto darkening glass?" The answer could be yes or no, depending on the model in question. Basic models will grow darker with any exposure to arc light, regardless of the source. Deluxe auto darkening helmets have a sensor built into their design that "understands" the difference between the operator's arc and a coworker's arc. For private individuals working by themselves, it makes little difference, if any, if the helmet has an auto-darkening sensor like this. For a company, however, it is best to invest in high-end auto darkening welding helmets to have a sensor for secondary arc light. It simply makes sense to do so. Auto darkening welding helmets offer an intuitive protection to modern welders. These helmets automatically darken when a welder strikes the arc. They free the hands that in the past had to lift and lower the faceplate, or remove the helmet altogether to see. Many injuries have been eliminated by auto darkening helmets because they cover a welder's eyes at all times without risking exposure to irritating fumes and flying debris. By instantly responding to light, these helmets auto darken when the welder strikes the arc and clear up after the welder shuts off the arc.
Auto darkening welding helmets prove especially useful to welders working indoors under poor light conditions. Traditional welding helmets can literally blind a welder if he has to suddenly cease welding and kill the arc, leaving himself in total darkness and subject to fall and/or injury. Because of this, many construction companies now require all of their welders to use auto darkening welding helmets so they can see to walk the buildings they are working in. Auto-darkening helmets also help farmers working outside because they react to sunlight much like the light an arc. In future years, it is very likely all welding helmets will be auto darkening not only because they are more convenient than standard helmets, but also because their ever-increasing precision allows for customized-eye protection--something Federal authorities and Insurance agencies may soon require.
There are two types of auto darkening helmets that welders use. One is battery-powered; the other is solar powered. Solar power is more convenient and efficient when working outside, but work deep inside of large structures, or even underground, will require battery-powered helmets. Both employ sensors to "know" when the light brightens, and when it is time to adjust the special glass in the face shield to block just the right amount of light. From time to time a welder calls in with the question, "Won't the arc from my fellow welder trigger the auto darkening glass?" The answer could be yes or no, depending on the model in question. Basic models will grow darker with any exposure to arc light, regardless of the source. Deluxe auto darkening helmets have a sensor built into their design that "understands" the difference between the operator's arc and a coworker's arc. For private individuals working by themselves, it makes little difference, if any, if the helmet has an auto-darkening sensor like this. For a company, however, it is best to invest in high-end auto darkening welding helmets to have a sensor for secondary arc light. It simply makes sense to do so.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Automotive Tools.
Safety And Reliability Of Our Vehicle's Steering - We Owe A Debt To Early Hot Rodders And Auto Racers
We owe a debt of gratitude to early "hot rodders". Those who modified and raced cars in their day pushed along the development and evolution of cars and vehicle steering mechanisms so now we can count on precise, safe and reliable steering mechanisms and units without question.
It is always interesting that is usually not the factory design teams, with all their resources, that push along developments and modifications in the automotive industry. It is often the hobbyist, the guy in his home garage, who under competition leads to the development and progression of what becomes improvements and modifications in the automotive. At a later point the automotive industry will step in to mass produce the improvements into features and options that gain widespread use in our vehicles and on our highways.
Just before and after the 1940's vintage car periods most sport car enthusiasts and hot rodders were driving pre-1935 Fords. The most popular steering gears swapped among speed and hot rod enthusiasts was the pre-1934 Ford steering gear units. It had a very fast steering ratio and could easily fit the Model "A" and "32" car frames. Parts were readily available, the cars were lightweight and few rodders felt the need to look any further.
By the early 1950's, the 37' - 1948 Ford steering mechanisms with the transverse drag arrangement gained popularity and a following over the previous preferences. The steering was a near perfect built in for 1935-36 Ford frames and its major advantage over the older units was it was self centering. After a turn in completed, the worm sector "floats" back to center. However if the steering was mounted normally in a pre-1935 chassis , a mount had to be built on the inside of the frame rail and boxing the frame was necessary to eliminate rail flexing.. Naturally since the pitman arm swung horizontally (cross steering) and was tied into the right front spindle. 1940's era Ford spindles had to be used. But it was no big deal and the most "modern" rods of the era went this route, even to the extent of adding 1940 Ford steering wheels, shift linkage and dashboards.
The "Gemmer" box was also turned on its side and mounted through the frame like the original. Usually a horizontal plate was welded on top of the rail to hold the steering, and the pitman arm was rotated 90 degrees so that it could be pinned up. A parallel drag link could then be used with a dropped front axle. But the evil bump steer was ever present.
In the late Fifties, another steering box started to gain popularity with street rodders. This was the parallel drag line steering from the 1954 and later Ford and Chevy pickups. (The Ford F-100 being the most popular of all). To install the Ford box in a Model "T" frame it was easiest to run the column down thought the floorboard almost between the driver's legs. Mounts for the gear box were fabricated and the pitman arm was modified to point straight down or was replaced with a new one flame cut out of half inch steel plate. Only minor modifications to the box itself were needed to bolt the pickup steering into the 1928-34 frames.
The Ford pickup box became the standard hot rod steering gear for many years to come, but the Chevy pickup steering was the easier of the two to install. It required only minor frame trimming to fit, but it never reached the level of popularity of the Ford box.
Then along came the time of the mid 60's Dearborn introduced the Ford Mustang. The steering box of the Mustang car was a great toy for the hot rodders.
This was the final step towards the evolution of steering gears.
All in all although our steering mechanisms in our cars, SUVs, trucks and other vehicle are now of more modern designs we owe a debt of gratitude to the hot rodders of their day for pushing along the evolution of precise and reliable steering gears and mechanisms for our vehicles.
Buy Car Edmonton Gateway California Redwoods Buy Car Vancouver
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It is always interesting that is usually not the factory design teams, with all their resources, that push along developments and modifications in the automotive industry. It is often the hobbyist, the guy in his home garage, who under competition leads to the development and progression of what becomes improvements and modifications in the automotive. At a later point the automotive industry will step in to mass produce the improvements into features and options that gain widespread use in our vehicles and on our highways.
Just before and after the 1940's vintage car periods most sport car enthusiasts and hot rodders were driving pre-1935 Fords. The most popular steering gears swapped among speed and hot rod enthusiasts was the pre-1934 Ford steering gear units. It had a very fast steering ratio and could easily fit the Model "A" and "32" car frames. Parts were readily available, the cars were lightweight and few rodders felt the need to look any further.
By the early 1950's, the 37' - 1948 Ford steering mechanisms with the transverse drag arrangement gained popularity and a following over the previous preferences. The steering was a near perfect built in for 1935-36 Ford frames and its major advantage over the older units was it was self centering. After a turn in completed, the worm sector "floats" back to center. However if the steering was mounted normally in a pre-1935 chassis , a mount had to be built on the inside of the frame rail and boxing the frame was necessary to eliminate rail flexing.. Naturally since the pitman arm swung horizontally (cross steering) and was tied into the right front spindle. 1940's era Ford spindles had to be used. But it was no big deal and the most "modern" rods of the era went this route, even to the extent of adding 1940 Ford steering wheels, shift linkage and dashboards.
The "Gemmer" box was also turned on its side and mounted through the frame like the original. Usually a horizontal plate was welded on top of the rail to hold the steering, and the pitman arm was rotated 90 degrees so that it could be pinned up. A parallel drag link could then be used with a dropped front axle. But the evil bump steer was ever present.
In the late Fifties, another steering box started to gain popularity with street rodders. This was the parallel drag line steering from the 1954 and later Ford and Chevy pickups. (The Ford F-100 being the most popular of all). To install the Ford box in a Model "T" frame it was easiest to run the column down thought the floorboard almost between the driver's legs. Mounts for the gear box were fabricated and the pitman arm was modified to point straight down or was replaced with a new one flame cut out of half inch steel plate. Only minor modifications to the box itself were needed to bolt the pickup steering into the 1928-34 frames.
The Ford pickup box became the standard hot rod steering gear for many years to come, but the Chevy pickup steering was the easier of the two to install. It required only minor frame trimming to fit, but it never reached the level of popularity of the Ford box.
Then along came the time of the mid 60's Dearborn introduced the Ford Mustang. The steering box of the Mustang car was a great toy for the hot rodders.
This was the final step towards the evolution of steering gears.
All in all although our steering mechanisms in our cars, SUVs, trucks and other vehicle are now of more modern designs we owe a debt of gratitude to the hot rodders of their day for pushing along the evolution of precise and reliable steering gears and mechanisms for our vehicles.
Buy Car Edmonton Gateway California Redwoods Buy Car Vancouver
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Inspecting a Used Auto Correctly
Before you purchase a used auto you always want to inspect it. While everyone can do the basics; checking out the body condition, doing the once-over, etc, there are a few small things you can do on your own. When it comes to the engine itself you want a professional to inspect that for you unless you are a mechanic.
The first part of inspecting the car is looking at the condition of the vehicle's body. Depending on the color you might be able to see any noticeable scratches or dents. Another thing to look at when you're viewing the body is the paint. Are there any spots that look discolored?
Sometimes when a car has been in an accident, minor or major, when they replace certain parts of the car they have to repaint it. The paint doesn't always match because the owner doesn't always care if it's perfect. So pay attention to any discoloration in the paint. If you notice something ask the owner or dealer about it.
If they confirm the vehicle has been in an accident you don't have to rule it out altogether. It might still be worth buying and you won't know until you finish your inspection.
When inspecting the body of the vehicle also check for rust. A sign of rust could be a sign of neglect in the care of the vehicle. Sometimes rust can be easily overlooked so try to be thorough in your inspection.
When you finish the body inspection, note the tires. Do they have decent tread? How old are they? How about a spare? You want to know if a spare is included and if it is, inspect it as well. You want to know if you will need to be buying new tires after you buy the vehicle.
Like previously stated, have a professional check under the hood of the vehicle. You can check the oil or other fluids you are familiar with but it is best to leave it for a professional. They can tell you of any problems they see or might occur.
Now you can finally inspect inside the vehicle. Take note when opening the doors; are they sturdy? Do they squeak? If there are floor mats in the vehicle, always check underneath. The carpet or flooring may look worse than when the mats cover them. Check for any signs of flooding damage, etc.
Once you are satisfied with the seats and floors start the vehicle. Listen for any odd noises, etc. Do all the electrical features of the vehicle work? Check the air conditioner and all the vents to see if they work properly. Check that all lighting and turn signals work properly.
Check all the windows and note if they make noise or go slow, etc. All these small details may sound silly but you want to know if something is going to go out shortly after you purchase the vehicle. You want to remember it 'is' a used vehicle so it won't be perfect but you can make note of any odd or unfamiliar noises, etc.
Shane Rethwisch is a retired mechanic and keeps many old beauties running smoothly. For Cameron Park auto repair he recommends their local shop for Cameron Park brakes, smog, or new car standard mileage checkpoint work.
The first part of inspecting the car is looking at the condition of the vehicle's body. Depending on the color you might be able to see any noticeable scratches or dents. Another thing to look at when you're viewing the body is the paint. Are there any spots that look discolored?
Sometimes when a car has been in an accident, minor or major, when they replace certain parts of the car they have to repaint it. The paint doesn't always match because the owner doesn't always care if it's perfect. So pay attention to any discoloration in the paint. If you notice something ask the owner or dealer about it.
If they confirm the vehicle has been in an accident you don't have to rule it out altogether. It might still be worth buying and you won't know until you finish your inspection.
When inspecting the body of the vehicle also check for rust. A sign of rust could be a sign of neglect in the care of the vehicle. Sometimes rust can be easily overlooked so try to be thorough in your inspection.
When you finish the body inspection, note the tires. Do they have decent tread? How old are they? How about a spare? You want to know if a spare is included and if it is, inspect it as well. You want to know if you will need to be buying new tires after you buy the vehicle.
Like previously stated, have a professional check under the hood of the vehicle. You can check the oil or other fluids you are familiar with but it is best to leave it for a professional. They can tell you of any problems they see or might occur.
Now you can finally inspect inside the vehicle. Take note when opening the doors; are they sturdy? Do they squeak? If there are floor mats in the vehicle, always check underneath. The carpet or flooring may look worse than when the mats cover them. Check for any signs of flooding damage, etc.
Once you are satisfied with the seats and floors start the vehicle. Listen for any odd noises, etc. Do all the electrical features of the vehicle work? Check the air conditioner and all the vents to see if they work properly. Check that all lighting and turn signals work properly.
Check all the windows and note if they make noise or go slow, etc. All these small details may sound silly but you want to know if something is going to go out shortly after you purchase the vehicle. You want to remember it 'is' a used vehicle so it won't be perfect but you can make note of any odd or unfamiliar noises, etc.
Shane Rethwisch is a retired mechanic and keeps many old beauties running smoothly. For Cameron Park auto repair he recommends their local shop for Cameron Park brakes, smog, or new car standard mileage checkpoint work.
Auto Paint How To: A Basic Guide
Whether you are just interested in re-spraying a small area to cover up some paint chips, or want to treat your car to a custom paint job that will let you enjoy envious stares from every pedestrian you pass, you will need to follow a few basic rules, and have the right tools to hand in order to carry out the work to a high standard.
The first thing to mention about auto paint jobs is that you should always work in a well ventilated area. Paint fumes can include a number of solvents that can leave you feeling light headed and even poison you if you inhale them, so make sure there is free passage of air through your work shop when you are painting. You should also wear a respirator mask during painting or preparation to avoid inhaling any paint and loose dust that you release.
To get the best effects when painting, you also need to make sure that you are able to keep dust to a minimum. You can achieve a good environment by hanging sheets from floor to ceiling in the area where you are working, and wearing overalls. You should also vacuum clean the area where you are painting at the beginning of every session.
When you apply auto body paint, the main thing is to get a good even finish that looks good, and the key to getting a good finish is having a good start. Preparation is everything in paining. Get it right, and you will be able to enjoy a fantastic smooth finish that will last for years and look great, skimp on your preparation, and your finish will look shabby straight away, and then get worse over time.
Before you paint, you need to strip off the old paint job. You can do this with a solvent based paint remover, or do it the hard way by sanding back the panels to bare metal using a sander. Whichever method you choose, you need to make sure that you have a very smooth base. To achieve this, use the finest grade abrasive paper available, and be prepared to put serious time into the job.
Once you are satisfied with your base, you can start applying the primer. Use a HLVP spray gun connected to an air compressor, as this is much more even than an aerosol, and will be much cheaper in the long run. You should use long sweeping strokes in a single direction to get a good base to paint onto. After every coat, allow the paint to dry, and then sand it back to a smooth surface. Then apply the next coat in strokes that go at 90 degrees to the previous layer, as this will produce an even color.
There are two types of auto paint that you can use on a car, cellulose based and Two Pack auto paint. Most painters now use Two Pack because it gives a better finish, and metallic colors are available, whereas cellulose paint can be tricky to deal with, and is best used on classic cars where you are trying to recapture an older style.
As with the primer, you should apply the auto paint in coats, spraying in a single direction, then sanding back to a fine surface to remove any imperfections, before applying the next layer at right angles to the previous one.
In between coats, it is imperative to clean the nozzles on your HVLP spray gun, as otherwise, small flakes of dried paint can be caught up in the spray and cause imperfections that will spoil the final effect.
Once you are satisfied that you have got a good covering and applied enough coats of auto body paint to create an excellent finish, apply one more coat for best effects, allow it to dry, and then sand back for a smooth finish. You should leave the paint to dry completely for 24 hours and then apply a wax polish to the whole body in order to protect your new paint job and give it a shine that will certainly catch the attention of anyone you pass on the road.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Automotive Tools
The first thing to mention about auto paint jobs is that you should always work in a well ventilated area. Paint fumes can include a number of solvents that can leave you feeling light headed and even poison you if you inhale them, so make sure there is free passage of air through your work shop when you are painting. You should also wear a respirator mask during painting or preparation to avoid inhaling any paint and loose dust that you release.
To get the best effects when painting, you also need to make sure that you are able to keep dust to a minimum. You can achieve a good environment by hanging sheets from floor to ceiling in the area where you are working, and wearing overalls. You should also vacuum clean the area where you are painting at the beginning of every session.
When you apply auto body paint, the main thing is to get a good even finish that looks good, and the key to getting a good finish is having a good start. Preparation is everything in paining. Get it right, and you will be able to enjoy a fantastic smooth finish that will last for years and look great, skimp on your preparation, and your finish will look shabby straight away, and then get worse over time.
Before you paint, you need to strip off the old paint job. You can do this with a solvent based paint remover, or do it the hard way by sanding back the panels to bare metal using a sander. Whichever method you choose, you need to make sure that you have a very smooth base. To achieve this, use the finest grade abrasive paper available, and be prepared to put serious time into the job.
Once you are satisfied with your base, you can start applying the primer. Use a HLVP spray gun connected to an air compressor, as this is much more even than an aerosol, and will be much cheaper in the long run. You should use long sweeping strokes in a single direction to get a good base to paint onto. After every coat, allow the paint to dry, and then sand it back to a smooth surface. Then apply the next coat in strokes that go at 90 degrees to the previous layer, as this will produce an even color.
There are two types of auto paint that you can use on a car, cellulose based and Two Pack auto paint. Most painters now use Two Pack because it gives a better finish, and metallic colors are available, whereas cellulose paint can be tricky to deal with, and is best used on classic cars where you are trying to recapture an older style.
As with the primer, you should apply the auto paint in coats, spraying in a single direction, then sanding back to a fine surface to remove any imperfections, before applying the next layer at right angles to the previous one.
In between coats, it is imperative to clean the nozzles on your HVLP spray gun, as otherwise, small flakes of dried paint can be caught up in the spray and cause imperfections that will spoil the final effect.
Once you are satisfied that you have got a good covering and applied enough coats of auto body paint to create an excellent finish, apply one more coat for best effects, allow it to dry, and then sand back for a smooth finish. You should leave the paint to dry completely for 24 hours and then apply a wax polish to the whole body in order to protect your new paint job and give it a shine that will certainly catch the attention of anyone you pass on the road.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Automotive Tools
Back Up Auto Sensor
The best solution for protecting your car when reversing is to install a back up auto sensor. By adding an infra red sensor to your rear bumper, you will be able to keep track of anything that is behind your car. By knowing what is hidden behind your car when you are going backwards, you will be able to avoid any accidental bumps that will cause damage to your vehicle.
It is almost impossible to see the details of everything behind your car when you are reversing. Thanks to the limited field of view provided by your mirror, and the shape of the rear of your car, seeing small or low objects such as the front of other cars, docks, and even small children can be extremely difficult.
If you cannot see objects, or are unaware of what is behind your car, you run the risk of bumping into it and either causing damage to your vehicle, or injury to any person who is behind you. This is where a back up auto sensor comes into play. These sensors act as your eyes, and work to detect any objects behind your car, and provide you with a warning before you hit them to prevent damage or injury.
Typically, a back up auto sensor takes the form of row of sensors across the rear bumper of your car connected to a warning device inside the car to let you know when you get too close to an object.
When reversing in a car, it is all too easy to be unaware of any small objects behind the car. If you have children, you will no doubt have had at least one scare when the kids have run out from behind the car when you are reversing. Just imagine if you had not been lucky. By having a back up auto sensor fixed to the rear of your car, you will give yourself peace of mind that you are not putting the lives of loved ones at risk.
Most sensors use an ultrasonic field that echoes off any objects in the way of your vehicle as you reverse, and then provide audible feedback to warn you as you close in on the object that is in your way. Basic back up auto sensors simply combine an alarm with the sensors to warn you, but more advanced models also include a visible display to give you an indication of how close you are getting to any static objects.
Fitting a back up auto sensor to your car can be a very straightforward process. All you need to do is fix the sensors to the rear of your car, and then connect it to the power supply and the internal warning device, whether this is an alarm, or a display screen.
In the past, many people have been put off purchasing a parking sensor for the rear of their car, because they thing that having the sensor devices on their bumper spoils the lines of their car, and is a little unsightly, but this is no longer the case.
To address these concerns, many manufacturers have now started to offer more discreet back up auto sensors which are concealed around the license plates at the back of the car. These are just as effective as the other models, but are less obvious on the back of your car.
You can choose from back up auto sensors that offer a simple audible alarm that beeps at an increasing rate as you close in on objects, through to much more advanced models that include a screen to display the exact distance to objects to make it completely clear to you just how close to something you are getting.
The latest versions can be integrated into the car more completely than ever, and include the possibility of having an LCD display as part of your existing rear view mirror that shows you the distance in either feet or metres.
If you want to make it simpler to park, reduce the risk of bumping into static objects when you are reversing, or protect other people when you are going backwards, fitting a back up auto sensor to the rear of your car will offer you the kind of warning that you need. The expense of bumping into someone else's car can be quite high, and for a fraction of that cost, you can protect your self and keep your vehicle looking great.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Air Compressors.
It is almost impossible to see the details of everything behind your car when you are reversing. Thanks to the limited field of view provided by your mirror, and the shape of the rear of your car, seeing small or low objects such as the front of other cars, docks, and even small children can be extremely difficult.
If you cannot see objects, or are unaware of what is behind your car, you run the risk of bumping into it and either causing damage to your vehicle, or injury to any person who is behind you. This is where a back up auto sensor comes into play. These sensors act as your eyes, and work to detect any objects behind your car, and provide you with a warning before you hit them to prevent damage or injury.
Typically, a back up auto sensor takes the form of row of sensors across the rear bumper of your car connected to a warning device inside the car to let you know when you get too close to an object.
When reversing in a car, it is all too easy to be unaware of any small objects behind the car. If you have children, you will no doubt have had at least one scare when the kids have run out from behind the car when you are reversing. Just imagine if you had not been lucky. By having a back up auto sensor fixed to the rear of your car, you will give yourself peace of mind that you are not putting the lives of loved ones at risk.
Most sensors use an ultrasonic field that echoes off any objects in the way of your vehicle as you reverse, and then provide audible feedback to warn you as you close in on the object that is in your way. Basic back up auto sensors simply combine an alarm with the sensors to warn you, but more advanced models also include a visible display to give you an indication of how close you are getting to any static objects.
Fitting a back up auto sensor to your car can be a very straightforward process. All you need to do is fix the sensors to the rear of your car, and then connect it to the power supply and the internal warning device, whether this is an alarm, or a display screen.
In the past, many people have been put off purchasing a parking sensor for the rear of their car, because they thing that having the sensor devices on their bumper spoils the lines of their car, and is a little unsightly, but this is no longer the case.
To address these concerns, many manufacturers have now started to offer more discreet back up auto sensors which are concealed around the license plates at the back of the car. These are just as effective as the other models, but are less obvious on the back of your car.
You can choose from back up auto sensors that offer a simple audible alarm that beeps at an increasing rate as you close in on objects, through to much more advanced models that include a screen to display the exact distance to objects to make it completely clear to you just how close to something you are getting.
The latest versions can be integrated into the car more completely than ever, and include the possibility of having an LCD display as part of your existing rear view mirror that shows you the distance in either feet or metres.
If you want to make it simpler to park, reduce the risk of bumping into static objects when you are reversing, or protect other people when you are going backwards, fitting a back up auto sensor to the rear of your car will offer you the kind of warning that you need. The expense of bumping into someone else's car can be quite high, and for a fraction of that cost, you can protect your self and keep your vehicle looking great.
Jason has been in the construction equipment and industrial sales business for over 10 years. He owns and operates Red Hill Supply to better serve the automotive and industrial industries. - Air Compressors.
Auto Refinisher's Questions and Answers Session
Auto Refinisher's Question & Answer Session
Q: The auto paint store where I buy my supplies is recommending that I switch to an HVLP compliant gun. What does HVLP mean?
A: Well, that?s a popular question that many painters have been asking in the last few years. To answer your question; HVLP stands for: High Volume Low Pressure. This has to deal with the amount of air that the Spraygun requires. HVLP compliant guns require a higher volume of air at a lower pressure. HVLP is a government spec. that has been mandated for all Spraygun Mfgrs. To be HVLP compliant a Spraygun must have less than 10 psi of air leaving the air cap. Inlet pressure will vary by model and brand of the gun. I have seen anywhere from 16-50 psi inlet pressure recommended by the different Spraygun manufacturers. If the gun is said to be HVLP compliant it will have 10 psi or less leaving the air cap regardless of the recommended inlet pressure. It must also be at least 65% efficient .
Q: Why should I switch?
A: Well to be perfectly honest, if you don't like to save money you shouldn't switch. In the answer to the previous question I said that an HVLP is 65% efficient. In comparison, a siphon feed Spraygun is about 20-25% efficient and a regular gravity feed spraygun is about 35-45% efficient. In laymen terms, spraying with an HVLP, at least 65% of the material you're spraying is actually going to the panel. A siphon feed Spraygun will only put down 25% or less materiel. And likewise a gravity feed Spraygun will only put down 45% or less. So if your average paint costs $100.00 per gallon you would save anywhere from $35-$55.
Q: Will I have to change my spraying technique?
A: Definitely, with an HVLP you will need to move closer to the item being painted. Typically 8" - 10" away from surface is required. Compared to siphon feeds, they require 10" - 12" from surface. Also, you won't need as much overlap as a siphon feed Spraygun. My recommendation is 15-25% overlap. With a siphon feed you needed to get at least 40-50% overlap to get a nice even job.
Q: So do I just buy a HVLP Spraygun and start using it?
A: No, First things first. You really need to check and make sure you have an adequate air supply. I have talked to guys that tell me they have plenty of air so I go ahead and sell them an HVLP Spraygun and come to find out later they didn't have anywhere near the recommended volume. Now, how do you find out if you have enough air you might ask? The first step is you need to know what your compressor's scfm rating is. If you have the paper work that came with your compressor it should tell or you may have to refer to where you bought it from. Also, sometimes on your compressor you'll find a sticker or tag giving the scfm rating at various psi. If you know what horsepower your compressor is a general rule of thumb is approximately 4 cfm per horse if the compressor is fairly new and 3 cfm per horse on an older model. Don't trust this equation to be 100% factual information though because many compressor Mfgrs adjust their horsepower by over-sizing the pulleys. Finding out this information can sometimes be a pain but it is very important before you buy a HVLP Spraygun.
Q: Is temperature selection more important for reducers and hardeners using HVLP?
A: Yes and No, No on spot panel repairs. Large repairs or full paint jobs are extremely important. I recommend using at least 1 temperature selection higher in your reducer selection than what the paint Mfgr. recommends for the temperature that day. (Example: If its 72? and your Mfgr. recommends 70? temp reducer, HVLP Sprayguns will perform better with an 80?-85? temperature reducer.)
Q: Will changing to an HVLP slow my production speed down?
A: According to the Spraygun Mfgrs. No. However I have talked with many Refinish Techs and most all of them say they had to slow down at first. After the learning curve, most all of them were able to go back to painting as many cars a day as before. Even though you're using much less air pressure with an HVLP spraygun to apply the finish you're putting on more material per pass than the average siphon feed Spraygun.
Q: I have been told that HVLP Sprayguns must be kept pristine clean. Is there any truth to that?
A: The truth is yes and no. Yes and no you ask? HVLP guns will spray just as well as a standard siphon feed gun will when it is dirty. So to answer your question it would be no it is not mandatory that HVLP be kept in ?pristine? condition. However with paints now days costing well into the hundreds of dollars per gallon why would you take the chance of ruining a paint job with a dirty gun. And it?s not just with the paint. Primers now days also cost well into the hundreds of dollars as well. So a dirty gun could literally cost you a bundle. Besides the price of the gun, imagine if you will all the material you would use on any particular job that could be completely wasted if your dirty gun caused a problem. Why take the chance? In this day and age you can purchase insurance for everything. Why not purchase a good spraygun cleaning kit? It?s cheap insurance.
Q: Why does my new HVLP gun sound so much different than my old siphon feed gun?
A: Remember HVLP stands for high volume low pressure. Also remember that HVLP must have less than 10 P.S.I. leaving the air cap. So your new HVLP spraygun is going to emit a different sound than your old conventional siphon feed gun. I have talked with some painters that compare their old siphon feed as a high pitched hissing sound and their new HVLP as a low pitched jet engine. So don't be fooled by the sound coming from your new HVLP spraygun. If you inlet pressure is set at the manufacturers recommendation then the air cap pressure will be at or below 10 P.S.I.
Q: I have heard other painters rave about the finish that their HVLP spraygun puts out. I have painted cars for 18 years and I tried an HVLP a few months back and I hated the thing. I just couldn't get my finish to lay out. What could I have been doing wrong?
A: Well, there are a number of things that could have been a problem. First of all I would check my technique. Remember I said earlier you would need to move in closer, slow down slightly, and overlap less. Secondly, I would check my air compressor's CFM. Most HVLP Sprayguns will need anywhere from 8-16 CFM at around 40-50 PSI. On average I want at least a 5 horse compressor with at least a 60 gallon air tank. This would be the bare minimum recommendation. This size air compressor with some HVLP Sprayguns would not be adequate. Thirdly and most often overlooked is air fittings and hoses. Let?s talk hoses first. With HVLP since they work off CFM instead of PSI you will need to make sure you have at least a 3/8" inside diameter air hose. Also use only the amount of air hose needed for the job (i.e. don't use 50 feet if 35 feet will work). Now for air fittings, buy only 3/8" inside diameter air fittings such as Sharpe's 8310, 8320, 8330, and 8340. Also get rid of all air restrictions that aren't absolutely necessary such as those little colored air dryer balls, air regulators, wound up unused air hose and yes even hose reels. These steps can be time consuming to fix all the little problems, but to save the most material and get the best out of your HVLP spraygun these things are very necessary.
Gary Kinsey has been a salesman for R&E Paint Supply for the last 12 years. He has a very proficient knowledge of the PBE industry and is a well trained customer service representative.
Q: The auto paint store where I buy my supplies is recommending that I switch to an HVLP compliant gun. What does HVLP mean?
A: Well, that?s a popular question that many painters have been asking in the last few years. To answer your question; HVLP stands for: High Volume Low Pressure. This has to deal with the amount of air that the Spraygun requires. HVLP compliant guns require a higher volume of air at a lower pressure. HVLP is a government spec. that has been mandated for all Spraygun Mfgrs. To be HVLP compliant a Spraygun must have less than 10 psi of air leaving the air cap. Inlet pressure will vary by model and brand of the gun. I have seen anywhere from 16-50 psi inlet pressure recommended by the different Spraygun manufacturers. If the gun is said to be HVLP compliant it will have 10 psi or less leaving the air cap regardless of the recommended inlet pressure. It must also be at least 65% efficient .
Q: Why should I switch?
A: Well to be perfectly honest, if you don't like to save money you shouldn't switch. In the answer to the previous question I said that an HVLP is 65% efficient. In comparison, a siphon feed Spraygun is about 20-25% efficient and a regular gravity feed spraygun is about 35-45% efficient. In laymen terms, spraying with an HVLP, at least 65% of the material you're spraying is actually going to the panel. A siphon feed Spraygun will only put down 25% or less materiel. And likewise a gravity feed Spraygun will only put down 45% or less. So if your average paint costs $100.00 per gallon you would save anywhere from $35-$55.
Q: Will I have to change my spraying technique?
A: Definitely, with an HVLP you will need to move closer to the item being painted. Typically 8" - 10" away from surface is required. Compared to siphon feeds, they require 10" - 12" from surface. Also, you won't need as much overlap as a siphon feed Spraygun. My recommendation is 15-25% overlap. With a siphon feed you needed to get at least 40-50% overlap to get a nice even job.
Q: So do I just buy a HVLP Spraygun and start using it?
A: No, First things first. You really need to check and make sure you have an adequate air supply. I have talked to guys that tell me they have plenty of air so I go ahead and sell them an HVLP Spraygun and come to find out later they didn't have anywhere near the recommended volume. Now, how do you find out if you have enough air you might ask? The first step is you need to know what your compressor's scfm rating is. If you have the paper work that came with your compressor it should tell or you may have to refer to where you bought it from. Also, sometimes on your compressor you'll find a sticker or tag giving the scfm rating at various psi. If you know what horsepower your compressor is a general rule of thumb is approximately 4 cfm per horse if the compressor is fairly new and 3 cfm per horse on an older model. Don't trust this equation to be 100% factual information though because many compressor Mfgrs adjust their horsepower by over-sizing the pulleys. Finding out this information can sometimes be a pain but it is very important before you buy a HVLP Spraygun.
Q: Is temperature selection more important for reducers and hardeners using HVLP?
A: Yes and No, No on spot panel repairs. Large repairs or full paint jobs are extremely important. I recommend using at least 1 temperature selection higher in your reducer selection than what the paint Mfgr. recommends for the temperature that day. (Example: If its 72? and your Mfgr. recommends 70? temp reducer, HVLP Sprayguns will perform better with an 80?-85? temperature reducer.)
Q: Will changing to an HVLP slow my production speed down?
A: According to the Spraygun Mfgrs. No. However I have talked with many Refinish Techs and most all of them say they had to slow down at first. After the learning curve, most all of them were able to go back to painting as many cars a day as before. Even though you're using much less air pressure with an HVLP spraygun to apply the finish you're putting on more material per pass than the average siphon feed Spraygun.
Q: I have been told that HVLP Sprayguns must be kept pristine clean. Is there any truth to that?
A: The truth is yes and no. Yes and no you ask? HVLP guns will spray just as well as a standard siphon feed gun will when it is dirty. So to answer your question it would be no it is not mandatory that HVLP be kept in ?pristine? condition. However with paints now days costing well into the hundreds of dollars per gallon why would you take the chance of ruining a paint job with a dirty gun. And it?s not just with the paint. Primers now days also cost well into the hundreds of dollars as well. So a dirty gun could literally cost you a bundle. Besides the price of the gun, imagine if you will all the material you would use on any particular job that could be completely wasted if your dirty gun caused a problem. Why take the chance? In this day and age you can purchase insurance for everything. Why not purchase a good spraygun cleaning kit? It?s cheap insurance.
Q: Why does my new HVLP gun sound so much different than my old siphon feed gun?
A: Remember HVLP stands for high volume low pressure. Also remember that HVLP must have less than 10 P.S.I. leaving the air cap. So your new HVLP spraygun is going to emit a different sound than your old conventional siphon feed gun. I have talked with some painters that compare their old siphon feed as a high pitched hissing sound and their new HVLP as a low pitched jet engine. So don't be fooled by the sound coming from your new HVLP spraygun. If you inlet pressure is set at the manufacturers recommendation then the air cap pressure will be at or below 10 P.S.I.
Q: I have heard other painters rave about the finish that their HVLP spraygun puts out. I have painted cars for 18 years and I tried an HVLP a few months back and I hated the thing. I just couldn't get my finish to lay out. What could I have been doing wrong?
A: Well, there are a number of things that could have been a problem. First of all I would check my technique. Remember I said earlier you would need to move in closer, slow down slightly, and overlap less. Secondly, I would check my air compressor's CFM. Most HVLP Sprayguns will need anywhere from 8-16 CFM at around 40-50 PSI. On average I want at least a 5 horse compressor with at least a 60 gallon air tank. This would be the bare minimum recommendation. This size air compressor with some HVLP Sprayguns would not be adequate. Thirdly and most often overlooked is air fittings and hoses. Let?s talk hoses first. With HVLP since they work off CFM instead of PSI you will need to make sure you have at least a 3/8" inside diameter air hose. Also use only the amount of air hose needed for the job (i.e. don't use 50 feet if 35 feet will work). Now for air fittings, buy only 3/8" inside diameter air fittings such as Sharpe's 8310, 8320, 8330, and 8340. Also get rid of all air restrictions that aren't absolutely necessary such as those little colored air dryer balls, air regulators, wound up unused air hose and yes even hose reels. These steps can be time consuming to fix all the little problems, but to save the most material and get the best out of your HVLP spraygun these things are very necessary.
Gary Kinsey has been a salesman for R&E Paint Supply for the last 12 years. He has a very proficient knowledge of the PBE industry and is a well trained customer service representative.
Is Your Auto Technician ASE Certified?
Prolonging the life of your car and making sure it keeps running properly through the years of wear and tear and extreme weather changes depends heavily on the auto mechanic or technician maintaining your car. Now the weather changes are strictly dependent of where you live but there's no denying the wear and tear that every car goes through and having a hack work on your car will really take its toll on the life of your car and your pocket book.
It's your responsibility to ensure that the auto mechanic or auto technician working on your vehicle or vehicles has the experience and ability to handle all necessary issues that can arise and that will save you time and money down the road. Don't take any chances with the health and life of your vehicle; you've invested a lot of money to buy it so insist on your auto mechanic or technician to be ASE certified. ASE certification is monitored from the nonprofit organization, National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence which was founded in 1972 and can be found at www.asecert.org.
The ASE has certified nearly 500,000 automotive professionals in the industry now with ASE testing and certifying auto technicians in all of the major areas of auto repair and auto service. You can find ASE certified auto technicians as well as auto parts specialists all across the United States from independently owned garages to huge name brand garages and dealerships.
Here's how ASE certification works: Prospective candidates register for and take one or more of ASE's 40-plus exams. The tests are grouped into specialties for automobile, medium/heavy truck, truck equipment, school bus, and collision repair technicians as well as engine machinists, alternate fuels technicians, parts specialists, auto service consultants, and collision damage estimators.
Twice a year in May and November ASE tests over 100,000 auto technicians at over 750 locations around the country. To become ASE certified one must pass at least one exam and have verified work experience of at least two years. The tests, developed by auto industry experts and overseen by ASE's own professionals, are administered by ACT known for its academic and occupational testing programs.
Also, these exams are not some piece of cake test, approximately one out of three test takers fails. Another reason ASE certification is so well respected in the auto industry and requires care and dedication is because a certified auto mechanic or technician must take the test every five years to maintain their certification which further works to find the best auto technicians in their field.
The best thing about the ASE certification is that it is certifying the individual technician's ability not the repair facility or garage as a whole in which they are employed. It doesn't even really matter if a repair facility has a decent reputation if they have unqualified technicians working there. ASE certified auto mechanics or technicians have the pride to test and prove their own technical competence to themselves, to their employers and to their customers.
With ASE certification being voluntary for the most part it separates sub standard auto technicians from quality technicians who are self motivated and seek out the certification that places them above the rest.
There's no denying that motorists will benefit from auto technicians that are ASE certified. Repair facilities that employ ASE certified professionals show their customers they care about the knowledge and skills of their individual technicians and their commitment to quality and customer loyalty.
You can identify a repair facility that has ASE certified professionals by the ASE Blue Seal of Excellence® logo. Also, ASE certified technicians usually wear blue and white ASE insignia and have credentials listing their exact areas of expertise (brakes, engine repair, etc.), most employers usually display their auto mechanics' or technicians' credentials in an area where it's easily visible, most often than not, in the customer service waiting area. These days our cars are usually the second biggest investment we make after our homes, so take your car to an ASE certified auto professional and you'll get the best possible service and a long healthy life for your car.
Get valuable tips and links for car buying online and buy cars online including online car loans, online car insurance, online car auctions, car buying mistakes and car dealer scams to avoid and so much more. You can save thousands of dollars and get the deal you deserve on the car you want when armed with the knowledge at http://Car-Buying-Help.com/carblog/
It's your responsibility to ensure that the auto mechanic or auto technician working on your vehicle or vehicles has the experience and ability to handle all necessary issues that can arise and that will save you time and money down the road. Don't take any chances with the health and life of your vehicle; you've invested a lot of money to buy it so insist on your auto mechanic or technician to be ASE certified. ASE certification is monitored from the nonprofit organization, National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence which was founded in 1972 and can be found at www.asecert.org.
The ASE has certified nearly 500,000 automotive professionals in the industry now with ASE testing and certifying auto technicians in all of the major areas of auto repair and auto service. You can find ASE certified auto technicians as well as auto parts specialists all across the United States from independently owned garages to huge name brand garages and dealerships.
Here's how ASE certification works: Prospective candidates register for and take one or more of ASE's 40-plus exams. The tests are grouped into specialties for automobile, medium/heavy truck, truck equipment, school bus, and collision repair technicians as well as engine machinists, alternate fuels technicians, parts specialists, auto service consultants, and collision damage estimators.
Twice a year in May and November ASE tests over 100,000 auto technicians at over 750 locations around the country. To become ASE certified one must pass at least one exam and have verified work experience of at least two years. The tests, developed by auto industry experts and overseen by ASE's own professionals, are administered by ACT known for its academic and occupational testing programs.
Also, these exams are not some piece of cake test, approximately one out of three test takers fails. Another reason ASE certification is so well respected in the auto industry and requires care and dedication is because a certified auto mechanic or technician must take the test every five years to maintain their certification which further works to find the best auto technicians in their field.
The best thing about the ASE certification is that it is certifying the individual technician's ability not the repair facility or garage as a whole in which they are employed. It doesn't even really matter if a repair facility has a decent reputation if they have unqualified technicians working there. ASE certified auto mechanics or technicians have the pride to test and prove their own technical competence to themselves, to their employers and to their customers.
With ASE certification being voluntary for the most part it separates sub standard auto technicians from quality technicians who are self motivated and seek out the certification that places them above the rest.
There's no denying that motorists will benefit from auto technicians that are ASE certified. Repair facilities that employ ASE certified professionals show their customers they care about the knowledge and skills of their individual technicians and their commitment to quality and customer loyalty.
You can identify a repair facility that has ASE certified professionals by the ASE Blue Seal of Excellence® logo. Also, ASE certified technicians usually wear blue and white ASE insignia and have credentials listing their exact areas of expertise (brakes, engine repair, etc.), most employers usually display their auto mechanics' or technicians' credentials in an area where it's easily visible, most often than not, in the customer service waiting area. These days our cars are usually the second biggest investment we make after our homes, so take your car to an ASE certified auto professional and you'll get the best possible service and a long healthy life for your car.
Get valuable tips and links for car buying online and buy cars online including online car loans, online car insurance, online car auctions, car buying mistakes and car dealer scams to avoid and so much more. You can save thousands of dollars and get the deal you deserve on the car you want when armed with the knowledge at http://Car-Buying-Help.com/carblog/
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